On the occasion of Pitti Uomo 105, Polimoda presents AN/ARCHIVE EVENT ONE, a preview of the future research center dedicated to fashion studies. From January 9th to 21st at the Manifattura Tabacchi in Florence, EVENT ONE will unfold as a multidisciplinary experience centered around the main theme The Body, offering an engaging exploration of the relationship between fashion and the human body.
The human body is central to fashion – it is the canvas on which designers express their creativity and vision. AN/ARCHIVE EVENT ONE wants to explore this intrinsic relationship, exploring how fashion shapes and is in turn shaped by our fixed form. The invitation towards a contemplative journey through different interpretations of the body in fashion, from the way garments fall and move, to the social and cultural meanings inherent in fashion itself. AN/ARCHIVE EVENT ONE is a celebration and reNlection on the body through the lens of style, identity and artistic expression involving garments from the A.N.G.E.L.O. Vintage Archive and works by William Forsythe, Minna Palmqvist and Sissel Tolaas.
The exhibition space will also host a programme of meetings with authors, experts and fashion researchers, promoting a series of essential conversations on the role of archiving, diversity in the representation of the body and the evolving dynamics of the fashion industry.
The exhibition is a selection curated by Massimiliano Giornetti, Director of Polimoda, and Linda Loppa, the school’s Strategy and Vision Advisor, that transcends the traditional configurations of fashion exhibition. Here, visitors will encounter a fusion of artistic disciplines, where fashion intersects with art, technology and culture. Each piece on display tells a unique story, reNlecting the different perspectives and innovative approaches of contemporary designers. From avant-garde installations to iconic fashion design creations, this immersive exhibition testiNies to how fashion is constantly evolving and impacting social trends and personal expression.
“A contemplative exploration of fashion as an intimate expression of the body. The awareness of sociological change is read through the evolution of the perception of the person. What we see in the mirror is not a reflection of true corporeity, but rather an emotional state and connection to a constantly changing. EVENT ONE is therefore meant to be an authentic emotional journey that invites us to meditate on the discordant nuances of our body identity,” explains Massimiliano Giornetti.
The exhibition of dresses from the A.N.G.E.L.O. Vintage Archive presents an evocative exploration of how the body is transformed through fashion. Starting with the constricting embrace of corsets, the quintessential symbol of body closure, it continues towards a search for non-form. The collection includes a selection of the most innovative designs from famous fashion houses, from Maison Margiela to Krizia, Romeo Gigli to Issey Miyake and Comme des Garçons. Each piece subverts traditional silhouettes, playing with structure and form to redeNine the confines of fashion and the body.
INVISIBLEVISIBLE_22 by Sissel Tolaas delves into the underestimated power of smell as a means of silent communication, while NO BODY by Minna Palmqvist, by changing the shape of the traditional tailor’s girdle, seeks to highlight the absurd in the perfect façade of the fashion world. Finally, ALIGNIGUNG, choreographed by William Forsythe, is a fascinating screendance that transcends traditional masculinity by celebrating the fuidity of male expression through innovative and expressive dance.
AN/ARCHIVE EVENT ONE is not just an exhibition; it is a platform for dialogue and discovery. The Talk section of the event presents a series of conversations with leading authors, experts and fashion researchers. These talks are designed to stimulate thought and inspire reflection on various aspects of fashion in relation to the body, from its historical roots to its future trajectory.
Some of these meetings will be available online, offering a virtual experience, such as the conversations with Paola Antonelli entitled “MoMa, The Museum of Modern Art, New York. A conversation on Research, Salons, Archives and Objects telling stories”, and the one with Valerie Steele “The Museum at Fashion Institute of Technology: Collecting, Conserving, Documenting, Exhibiting, and Interpreting Fashion”.
Others will take place in person, such as the talks by Sissel Tolaas, “INVISIBLEVISIBLE_22”, by Eugene Rabkin, “Fashion and the Male”, and by Angelo Caroli in conversation with Giuliana Matarrese. This hybrid format ensures a contemporary and inclusive approach, making the event accessible to enthusiasts and professionals regardless of their location.
“So not an exhibition of garments of different styles and eras, but rather an anthropological exploration of the architecture of the body, seen through the perspective of the archive. Capturing, yes, the aesthetic evolution of taste over the last 40 years, but essentially stimulating a necessary reflection on the changing perception of the body through the lens of gender identity and individual expression,’ Giornetti concludes.
The detailed programme with all the information and talk times can be found HERE.
The exhibition will be open every day and can be visited from 9 to 21 January 2024 from 2pm to 8pm with free admission at Polimoda – Building B4 (Manifattura Tabacchi – Via delle Cascine 35, Florence).
AN/ARCHIVE
AN/ARCHIVE is the new creative hub for fashion research presented by Polimoda. A space open to the city, designed to welcome researchers, curators, archivists, students, designers and businesses interested in studying fashion. Not a museum but a new concept fashion archive: a vibrant, dynamic and accessible place for research, but also a venue for encounters and events. A workshop in constant evolution based on the curatorship of iconic garments by great designers, encouraging contact between the various creative players in the fashion system using a universal idiom and an analytical approach to fashion. Indeed, AN/ARCHIVE is designed as an innovative space that will host exhibitions, workshops, conferences and debates on some of the most relevant issues for today’s fashion industry, stimulating reflection on the future of the sector and helping a new generation of researchers to emerge. The project will be curated by Polimoda and supported by the school’s resources, European funding, grants, sponsors, and public and private partnerships interested in training and research.