“This is an invitation for us all to reflect on our well-being, our work and the product we create”, this was Angelo Figus’s call at the second talk for AN/ARCHIVE EVENT TWO: blue r/evolution, on occasion of Pitti Filati.
The trend forecaster and creative director’s intervention was sensitive and insightful, positioning comfort and our longing for security as definitive factors in the trends and colors to come next year.
On January 29th, fashion professionals and students gathered at Polimoda’s Manifattura campus for Angelo Figus’s Body of Light presentation, a title that echoed Pitti Filati’s research space’s theme. Exploring the human being in its entirety, Figus boldly proposed that trends possess the power to transform perspective, advocating for a holistic approach to design.
Body Of Light references the body in all its dimensions; from the body as the envelope through which we experience the world, to the body as the object of our observation. The presentation was divided into three sections: Corpo Fisico (physical body), Corpo Sottile (subtle body), and Corpo Spirituale (spiritual body).
In the Corpo Fisico section, Figus explored the material body’s extraordinary dimension, revealing how natural structures viewed under the microscope have long captivated artists seeking to capture the invisible. Drawing inspiration from laboratory dyes, he transformed rational designs into vibrant visual compositions that burst with spontaneous energy, celebrating the intricate geometries hidden within scientific observation.
Corpo Sottile challenged us to look at people in a non-materialistic way. It investigated the boundary between the physical body and the space that contains it, often defined as ‘aura’, which Figus defines as the energetic field surrounding an individual, a subtle realm of interpersonal connection that transcends physical boundaries. In this section, he explored designs as veils, a way to connect with others by offering both comfort and transparency. He defined designs as a communication tool, illuminating the contour of the body. The focus is on soft colours that carry healing properties for both the eye and the soul.
Corpo Spirituale breaks away from the body to explore space, helping us to reconsider our dimension in relation to an infinite universe. In contrast to Corpo Fisico, we leave the body behind to observe the stars and the cosmos as an entity. The analysis of movement flowing from the body into the universe is key, and future designs will be inspired by the light emanating from the sky: “stealing the light of the sky to illuminate the body”. Colors in this section will be bright and inspired by the Milky Way.
In each of the body’s dimensions he explored, colors play a key role, and what he made clear was that designers need a base from which to explore them in detail. Blue, the main focus of AN/ARCHIVE EVENT TWO’s exhibition, emerged as a unifying thread throughout the body dimensions: from the vibrant laboratory hues of Corpo Fisico to the soft healing tones of Corpo Sottile, and finally the cosmic brightness of Corpo Spirituale. Figus does not believe in the use of black, instead claiming blue as a fantastic base for other colors. Black, with its depth and severity, enhances the sharpness of surrounding colors, creating a striking contrast that can feel intense to the eye. Figus claims black is the color of doubt, affirming that today we need certainty. Blue, on the other hand, offers a vast spectrum of shades. Softer and less overpowering, it blends seamlessly with other tones, encouraging creative exploration and emotional depth.
Rooted in tradition and strongly linked to denim, blue also represents a way of thinking about clothing: Figus underlined the recent resurgence of high-quality raw denim, reflecting the longevity of the product. Raw fabrics will resonate with both the public and creatives who are exhausted from building fantasies in fashion, “we need to go back to what fashion was before, good things are done in a special way, and we will go back to it.”
A nostalgic visionary, Angelo Figus anchors himself in the past to build the future. He longs for a society that is less superficial, a statement that immediately sparked a reaction in the audience. A student raises the question, “isn’t the concept of trend superficial itself?”, to which the creative director replied, “nobody needs changing trends, but everyone needs refreshment. It is the intention that makes the difference”. Behind the concept of trends lies the impression of shallowness. A trend is often perceived at a surface level, lacking depth, it appears as a dictate, and many struggle to understand why someone should be entrusted with influencing society. Figus does not believe in micro-trends; on the contrary, he supports long-lasting trends that emerge from deep and extensive research. By ‘refreshment’, Angelo Figus conveys the idea that designers must deeply resonate and engage with these explorations. Trend books are materials designed for creatives to study, aiming to spark emotions that can then be translated into design. Trend forecasting is neither a science nor a sacred doctrine. It does not apply to everyone, nor does it need to be universally adopted or followed. It offers possibilities rather than prescriptions, inviting designers to interpret, adapt, or challenge its insights.
Throughout the talk, his words resonated with his vision for the industry, that of a need for transformation. If we return to the principles of fashion, while staying grounded in a long-term vision, we can appreciate both the process and the final product again. Figus emphasises that time is crucial in restoring quality: “We need time to let things develop. We can accept the current moment, but we need to process things and let them sit.”
Trend forecasting is an ongoing process requiring discipline, dedication and adjustments. While he believes that social media and scrolling “mess it up”, he is also confident that behaviors are evolving and that people are returning to the core principles of fashion. “People are rejecting over stimulation, because it isn’t sustainable in the long term.”
Angelo Figus has demonstrated that, through inspirations and colors, trend forecasting is art; it pays witness to a moment in time and it helps us analyse and understand society. Participants left the talk inspired, with a new found perspective, and motivation to act for change.
LOCATION AND DATES
AN/ARCHIVE EVENT TWO: blue r/evolution is open on the top floor of the B4 building at Manifattura Campus.
Polimoda
Manifattura Campus
Via delle Cascine 35, Florence
View on map
14 January – 15 February 2025
Open daily from Monday to Saturday
10 am – 7 pm
Free entry
