Jakob Nittmann

Unlearning Neutral by Jakob Nittmann begins with a provocation: colour was not always absent from menswear. In 18th century aristocratic dress, colour was natural, learned, and intentional, a conscious expression of status and personality. Its disappearance, Jakob argues, came not from rejection but from insecurity, as the rise of the middle class brought conformity and the knowledge of colour was gradually lost. The collection sets out to reclaim that courage. Patterns and silhouettes from 18th century menswear coats are translated into contemporary forms, bombers, trench coats, skiing jackets, while embroidery, prints, and accessories carry the same historical spirit into the present. Technical, modern fabrics provide a deliberate contrast to the richness of the references, grounding the collection firmly in today. Inspired by interior design and gardens, the palette is joyful and considered. Unlearning Neutral is an invitation for men to make themselves visible again, and to remember that dressing with joy is not frivolous, but radical.