Oíd Mortales
Inspiration
I come from a very small, dangerous town in Buenos Aires, Argentina. There, you’re lucky if you come back home with all your belongings by the end of the day. It’s a tough reality, and when I arrived here, I saw how people tend to know only the other Argentina—the privileged one, the one with Messi, the Pope, Patagonia, polo, etc.—which wasn’t available to everyone, and certainly wasn’t available to me or my family. This inspired me to make my collection about a rebellious boy, also from a small town, who wants to conquer that privileged Buenos Aires. Tired of his low-class lifestyle, he moves to the city and tries to social climb all the way to the top of high society. He wants to fool them all and essentially take the piss out of them, so he enrolls in all the activities and sports—polo, social clubs, after-parties—that are part of that aristocratic lifestyle, making them believe he belongs. It’s like an Argentine version of Saltburn. It’s a clash between elements of the gaucho lifestyle—low class, more chill—but made fancy and tailored to reference high class and polo, the “sport of kings.” There’s a sense of queerness, but in a sober, transgressive way. It’s fun, but it’s serious. It’s a combination of both worlds. But mostly, it’s the attitude of the collection that brings it all together. The boys are rebels—they don’t care what others will think of them. They want to win at all costs. That’s why one will find ‘Winner Rosettes’ throughout the collection—because he thinks he is number one. Just to mention one of the few styling elements featured in the collection.
Materials
Following the idea of developing the concept in a sober, transgressive way, I selected materials that reflect that—wool fabric, for example—but I also needed a twist, something unexpected. That’s when I brought in elements such as velvet or real feathers to the garments. The idea of feathers was to add a touch of fanciness that still resonates with the countryside. Other materials used, such as leather, were fundamental not only to evoke polo equipment but also to incorporate Gaucho leather traditions, whether in belts or accessories. Knitwear is also a huge part of the collection, since I needed dry wools to bring that sober, polo-inspired element.
Credits: photo by Filippo Fior and Salvatore Dragone / GoRunway
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