The Polimoda Fashion Show has ended in an unconventional manner, with two designers tied in their votes from the Jury, and thus two winners for the title of Best Collection for 2016.
The Jury, which included international experts from the world of fashion, cast their anonymous votes directly after the Show held at the magnificent Palazzo Strozzi on the eve of June 14th.
The results are in and we’re pleased to announce that out of the 20 designers whose work was shown, both Mirco Arena and Federico Cina have received the title for Best Collection for 2016. Both designers created 5-look menswear collections, which on the occasion of Pitti Uomo 90, is a fitting celebration of menswear, and in particular, new ideas for men’s garments, men’s identity, and men’s expression. A special mention is also earned by one designer, Ryota Sakai, whose womenswear had a certain quality the jury could not ignore.
Rich in creativity, Mirco Arena’s collection entitled Dethroned Love had a frozen aura in a muted palette, heightened by transparent straw headpieces. It was regal yet ascetic; pins, plastic, and skulls embellished velvet coats, leather bombers, and transparent garments reminiscent of a shower curtain; softly concealing and revealing with delicate order.
Federico Cina’s garments were about the simple principle of family, though told with transgression, wit and a deeply personal point of view. Breast pumps for men were built into garments that at times hinted at military notes, but only because men are immediately associated in this way and only to be quickly deconstructed, along with all that goes with a man’s traditional role in society. Entitled Come una Vita viene al Mondo, this collection was about the designer’s dream to have a family, in a country that currently prohibits this for same-sex couples.
There is also a special mention granted to one designer, who received very positive feedback from many members of the jury, and whose collection was particular in its romance, innovation, and technical fineness. Ryota Sakai created Kami, inspired by the everyday life he imagined experienced by Sumo wrestlers. Dome-like volumes mounted on garments and the bodies of models seemed weightless and skeletal, hinting at what lies beneath these enormous athletes’ bodies. Inside, these models and sumo wrestlers are the same, and so Sakai looked at outer and inner life in its most fundamental form.