20 years of Martin Margiela

Palais Galliera launches first Parisian retrospective on avant-garde fashion legend


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Palais Galliera Musée de la Mode de Paris opens its doors to the city’s first major retrospective on conceptual Belgian designer Martin Margiela.

On display from March 3rd to July 15th 2018, the exhibition is part of the Saison Margiela 2018 à Paris and spans from spring-summer 1989 to spring-summer 2009, featuring the brand’s most iconic pieces, House archival material, rare interviews and video footage. Officially curated by head of contemporary collections Alexandre Samson, the scenography was created by Mr Margiela himself in collaboration with former Museum director and fashion historian Olivier Saillard.

Margiela-Galliera 1989-2009

Needless to say, our Advisor Linda Loppa was crucial in making this show reality.

In spite of his devotion to anonymity and precocious retirement, Martin Margiela’s faceless presence is stronger than ever in today’s fashion world. His iconoclastic attitude, provocative minimalism and use of unlikely runway venues deeply transformed the way we perceive and highlight fashion. The ongoing influence of his work and aesthetics can still be spotted in collections worldwide.

Polimoda students are encouraged to head en masse to the city of lights and love, where Margiela took his first steps as an assistant to Jean Paul Gaultier in 1980, to draw inspiration from a true, game-changing visionary.

Margiela-Galliera 1989-2009

I missed a Rick Owens show, spending many hours at the opening ‘vernissage’ of the Margiela exhibition at Palais Galliera. The exhibition is so special: Martin himself took the time to curate every detail, every silhouette, and every accessory. It was so authentic, a very special ‘moment’ because we were all present, make-up artists, designers such as Jean-Paul Gaultier who knew Martin from previous collaborations, but also models, friends who showed for him, collected his garments, and many groupies such as myself. I was a great fan of his clothes – they fit my body and soul and the mood I was in, namely a provocative attitude aimed at intriguing others and attracting the eye of those critics who were not yet prepared to accept an unfinished seam on a woman like me.

Linda Loppa